Why I love Memphis
What I love about Memphis:I have to say I always liked Memphis, but when I met Pat Kerr Tigrett and she showed me “her Memphis”, I saw it in a different light. I originally met Pat on the American Queen maiden voyage in 2012. We began in Memphis with an array of christening festivities including a special lunch that I prepared for the Godmother of the American Queen, Priscilla Presley. Several days later we docked in my hometown of Natchez. I invited several guests, including Pat and her long-time girlfriends from London to my house, Twin Oaks. It was a memorable Natchez afternoon, and obvious that we would all be friends. Our final port of this inaugural cruise was New Orleans, this is where we met up with our mutual friend, Julia Reed. As always in New Orleans it was a long lunch at the Roosevelt Hotel. Lunch with Julia was never dull, she always had the best stories. To quote Jon Meacham who spoke at Julia’s memorial service last September “Julia was the Shakespeare of profanity”, that was just one of the many memorable lines Jon shared when delivering her eulogy. Anyone who knew Julia mourns the loss, but she left us all with so many memorable meals and moments that we always feel she is with us.Another favorite memory was In 2014, Julia and I were speaking at the National Food Writers conference in Memphis at the Peabody Hotel. We reached out to Pat, and she offered to meet us for a night cap at the Peabody. Like Julia when Pat enters the room it is going to be a party. After a cocktail or two at the Peabody, Pat had the valet pull her car around and she piled me, my husband Doug, Julia Reed, Michael Bauer from the San Francisco Chronicle and Kim Severson from the NY Times into her car. Along the way sharing Memphis stories and a drive by tour ending up at “Ernestine and Hazels” for a late-night cocktail and most importantly a “Soul Burger”The history of Ernestine and Hazels is pure Southern Gothic. The building once a pharmacy owned by Abe Plough, who created Coppertone suntan lotion once a millionaire, made the philanthropic move to gift the building to cousins, Hazel and Ernestine who had a beauty shop upstairs. They were just as philanthropic by renting rooms in their newly acquired building out to ladies of the night. The downstairs was a jazz café which became a late-night haunt for all the R&B performers.Ernestine’s husband known as “Sunbeam” opened a club called Club Paradise not far from Stax records. Everyone played his club, Aretha, Chuck Berry, and Ray Charles. He was friends with all the artists at Stax records. They all found their way over to Ernestine and Hazels for late night plates of soul food. By the mid 70’s Club Paradise was boarded up and Stax records closed. In 1992 a new owner with a vision of the days of BB King, Bo Didley and Sam Cook, politely got the ladies of the night to move out and he began to put life back into the tattered building. It is not hard to believe the ghost stories and tales of all the people that met their demise there through the years. It has that vibe. But let me tell you, after a night of cocktails and music Memphis style, there is no better end to an evening than a Soul Burger. A thin patty cooked with chopped onions on a well-seasoned grill, a round of mustard with a couple of pickles and the only choice you have is with or without cheese. This is not a place where you ask for anything that they are not offering. There is a small bag of plain potato chips and that’s it. It was a pre-cure for a hangover that luckily never came the next day.
I have been so fortunate to have met so many fabulous people in my life. Pat, like Julia is multi-faceted. A couture designer (her creations have graced the windows of some of the most prestigious department stores in America). Her collection of designs has been displayed at Kensington Palace. She is an amazing philanthropist but when it comes right down to it; Pat Kerr Tigret is one of the most joyful, fun, and giving people I have met. Although we don’t see each other often, we always manage to pick up where we left off. On my most recent trip to Memphis I reached out and although she just returned from London, she showed no signs of jet lag and was the ever-perfect hostess while we filled in the missing years and covid catch up while sipping cocktails. During our visit, constantly observing her nesting doves who had taken on residence on her balcony. The joy Pat finds in everything in her life and city is contagious. Knowing her means loving all Memphis has to offer.
I will share some of my favorite Memphis spots, many that Pat has introduced me to.
Where to Stay:The Peabody HotelI mostly go to Memphis to get on one of the American Queen Voyage boats. It never disappoints. How can you not love the Peabody hotel? Legendary for its charm, elegance, gracious hospitality, and rich history. This Memphis icon, opened in 1869, is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and is world-famous for its five resident ducks, who march daily through the lobby. The best time for the duck march is at cocktail time five o’clock. This event never loses its charm with me, and you can’t help but fall in love with the Duck Master, whether you are 5 or 75. The rooms are pristine and lovely, the amenities plentiful and great coffee shop with gorgeous pastries. The restaurants are first class under the direction of Chef Andreas Kistler.
Where to Eat (Walking Distance from the Peabody)The best breakfast in Memphis! Sugar Grits – 150 Peabody Place 901-249-5206Breakfast and especially grits are taken very serious here, under the guidance of Chef Kevin Harris and the most charming server Talia Mosby! I will make this a must every trip. So good!McEwen’s 120 Monroe Ave. Memphis 901-527-7085I have been coming to this restaurant with American Queen executives and staff for over 10 years. You can count on a perfect gin martini; any classic cocktail will be well prepared. The food is creative and satisfying without a lot of fuss. Always a nice selection of fish dishes, braised pork osso buco and a classic ribeye.
Flight 39 S Main St, MemphisA favorite of Pat’s and I have enjoyed it for 10 years. They do a great job. Small plates to entrees, creative tasting menus. Small plates of soups, salads & entrees plus flight pours of wine in a posh surrounding. The deviled eggs with crispy gulf oysters are a favorite plus the ocean flight of New Orleans BBQ Shrimp, Jumbo Lump Crab Cake, Lobster Ravioli Worth getting in an Uber for!The Beauty Shop (Brunch)“Look Good. Eat Good.” are the words emblazoned on the front windows at the Beauty Shop. This hip and trendy restaurant in the Cooper-Young district of midtown Memphis does both, as it conjures up images of a ‘50s-style beauty shop, formerly Priscilla Presley’s curl-and-dye spot. It’s a camp wonderlandVery creative takes on classic benedict, such as the Beneduck a crispy sugar & spice duck, almond skordalia, arugula,hot pepper jelly, poached eggs, and smoked paprika hollandaise. So much to choose from, everyone will be happy. Great brunch drinks as well.
Andrew Michael, 712 W Brookhaven Cir, Memphis, Hog & Hominy 707 W. BrookhavenYou cannot go wrong with any of Michael and Andrews restaurants. Born and bred Memphians, Andy Ticer and Michael Hudman opened Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen in 2008 to feature innovative Italian cooking rooted in Southern tradition. Their second restaurant, Hog & Hominy, is a wood burning, neighborhood eatery and was named one of the top new restaurants by GQ Magazine, Southern Living, and Bon Appetit as well as a semi-finalist for Best New Restaurant from the James Beard Foundation. I met these guys through Julia Reed and have been a longtime fan. Catherine & Mary’s, the chefs’ first restaurant in Downtown Memphis, opened in September of 2016 and brought together their blend of grandmother cooking, Italian philosophy of dining, and southern ingredients to the heart of the city.In January of 2018, the chefs opened their second downtown restaurant, located in the Old Dominick Distillery on South Front Street. This most recent addition embraces a new and exciting restaurant concept, featuring an open kitchen, wood fire cooking and a raw bar, all overlooking the Mississippi River in the South Main Arts District of Downtown Memphis.
The Music Scene (and history)I love, love the Stax Museum of American Soul Music and how can you not visit Sun Studios when in Memphis?On Beale Street BBKings and Blues City Café still seem to rule.
Distilleries, Breweries, Dive Bars
Old Dominick Distillery 305 S. Front Street 901-260-1250
High Cotton Brewing Co. 598 Monroe Street 901-543-4444
Find your way to the best dive bar in Memphis for a late-night Soul Burger at Ernestine & Hazel’s (great juke box) 531 S. Main 901-523-9754
I have been so fortunate to have met so many fabulous people in my life. Pat, like Julia is multi-faceted. A couture designer (her creations have graced the windows of some of the most prestigious department stores in America). Her collection of designs has been displayed at Kensington Palace. She is an amazing philanthropist but when it comes right down to it; Pat Kerr Tigret is one of the most joyful, fun, and giving people I have met. Although we don’t see each other often, we always manage to pick up where we left off. On my most recent trip to Memphis I reached out and although she just returned from London, she showed no signs of jet lag and was the ever-perfect hostess while we filled in the missing years and covid catch up while sipping cocktails. During our visit, constantly observing her nesting doves who had taken on residence on her balcony. The joy Pat finds in everything in her life and city is contagious. Knowing her means loving all Memphis has to offer.
I will share some of my favorite Memphis spots, many that Pat has introduced me to.
Where to Stay:The Peabody HotelI mostly go to Memphis to get on one of the American Queen Voyage boats. It never disappoints. How can you not love the Peabody hotel? Legendary for its charm, elegance, gracious hospitality, and rich history. This Memphis icon, opened in 1869, is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and is world-famous for its five resident ducks, who march daily through the lobby. The best time for the duck march is at cocktail time five o’clock. This event never loses its charm with me, and you can’t help but fall in love with the Duck Master, whether you are 5 or 75. The rooms are pristine and lovely, the amenities plentiful and great coffee shop with gorgeous pastries. The restaurants are first class under the direction of Chef Andreas Kistler.
Where to Eat (Walking Distance from the Peabody)The best breakfast in Memphis! Sugar Grits – 150 Peabody Place 901-249-5206Breakfast and especially grits are taken very serious here, under the guidance of Chef Kevin Harris and the most charming server Talia Mosby! I will make this a must every trip. So good!McEwen’s 120 Monroe Ave. Memphis 901-527-7085I have been coming to this restaurant with American Queen executives and staff for over 10 years. You can count on a perfect gin martini; any classic cocktail will be well prepared. The food is creative and satisfying without a lot of fuss. Always a nice selection of fish dishes, braised pork osso buco and a classic ribeye.
Flight 39 S Main St, MemphisA favorite of Pat’s and I have enjoyed it for 10 years. They do a great job. Small plates to entrees, creative tasting menus. Small plates of soups, salads & entrees plus flight pours of wine in a posh surrounding. The deviled eggs with crispy gulf oysters are a favorite plus the ocean flight of New Orleans BBQ Shrimp, Jumbo Lump Crab Cake, Lobster Ravioli Worth getting in an Uber for!The Beauty Shop (Brunch)“Look Good. Eat Good.” are the words emblazoned on the front windows at the Beauty Shop. This hip and trendy restaurant in the Cooper-Young district of midtown Memphis does both, as it conjures up images of a ‘50s-style beauty shop, formerly Priscilla Presley’s curl-and-dye spot. It’s a camp wonderlandVery creative takes on classic benedict, such as the Beneduck a crispy sugar & spice duck, almond skordalia, arugula,hot pepper jelly, poached eggs, and smoked paprika hollandaise. So much to choose from, everyone will be happy. Great brunch drinks as well.
Andrew Michael, 712 W Brookhaven Cir, Memphis, Hog & Hominy 707 W. BrookhavenYou cannot go wrong with any of Michael and Andrews restaurants. Born and bred Memphians, Andy Ticer and Michael Hudman opened Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen in 2008 to feature innovative Italian cooking rooted in Southern tradition. Their second restaurant, Hog & Hominy, is a wood burning, neighborhood eatery and was named one of the top new restaurants by GQ Magazine, Southern Living, and Bon Appetit as well as a semi-finalist for Best New Restaurant from the James Beard Foundation. I met these guys through Julia Reed and have been a longtime fan. Catherine & Mary’s, the chefs’ first restaurant in Downtown Memphis, opened in September of 2016 and brought together their blend of grandmother cooking, Italian philosophy of dining, and southern ingredients to the heart of the city.In January of 2018, the chefs opened their second downtown restaurant, located in the Old Dominick Distillery on South Front Street. This most recent addition embraces a new and exciting restaurant concept, featuring an open kitchen, wood fire cooking and a raw bar, all overlooking the Mississippi River in the South Main Arts District of Downtown Memphis.
The Music Scene (and history)I love, love the Stax Museum of American Soul Music and how can you not visit Sun Studios when in Memphis?On Beale Street BBKings and Blues City Café still seem to rule.
Distilleries, Breweries, Dive Bars
Old Dominick Distillery 305 S. Front Street 901-260-1250
High Cotton Brewing Co. 598 Monroe Street 901-543-4444
Find your way to the best dive bar in Memphis for a late-night Soul Burger at Ernestine & Hazel’s (great juke box) 531 S. Main 901-523-9754